While conversing among one of the finest groups of movie poster collectors in the world on www.allposterforum.com, I have come to the quick realization that there is an emerging necessity to develop a Standard Scale for conservation, support, and restoration.
So, on my own, I have developed a five level scale:
Level 0. Non-Wet Conservation Only
Perhaps supported by loose acid free paper in storage and, at the most, an application of fast drying acid removal chemicals such as Bookkeeper® Deacidification Spray or Wei T’o both forms of magnesium oxide. The magnesium oxide, once it reacts with the atmosphere, forms magnesium hydroxide and then reacts with the acids in the paper to form magnesium salts. This can be done without total wetting of the paper. However, research has shown that the magnesium salts can create a chalky appearance on the paper effecting color. Magnesium based deacidification is also know to yellow in humid conditions.
Level 1. Wet Conservation Only
This involves the deacidification of the paper…
A quick rant: Why the hell would a true conservator offer deacidification as an additional service for an additional fee. What is the point of linenbacking/paperbacking without deacidification??? It all starts with deacidification… If any linenbacker provides backing services without deacidification, that is a red flag in my opinion…
and then re-flatten by weight or vacu-seal heat press.
Conservation comes in the form of deacidification and removing dirt and grime from the poster.
Deacidification comes in the same magnesium oxide form (spray or submersion) as described about or complete submersion in a calcium hydroxide solution (at the right ph level) and soaked for 20 to 30 minutes (I prefer calcium hydroxide).
Washing the poster can be accomplished by using a mild soap such as Orvus to lift dirt and other grime and rinse it away.
Spot Cleaning can be accomplished with the use of a suction table and applying various solutions or bleaches to specific areas. The suction table can be arranged to provide suction directly under the stain and as the solution is applied, it is drawn through the stain (by suction) assisting in its removal. Spot bleaching with can also be accomplished for stubborn censor stamps etc.
Bleaching (Optional) has been placed in Level 1, as it is a widely accepted practice to safely bleach paper and restore the original level of brightness to a poster. Bleaching is not needed to conserve a piece of paper, but only to improve its appearance. Patina or discoloring of paper may have been caused by weathering, acidity, dirt grime, etc… It is often thought of that bleach cleans or whitens. However, bleaching actually removes chromophores within the paper itself by destruction. What a word! Chromophores are what controls the absorption of light within a pigmented or yellowed piece of paper. Once they are destroyed, there is a reduction in the light absorbing capacity of the paper. Some collectors believe this destroys the essence of the item and that is why this is optional. Bleaching is irreversible (except there is such a thing a tea staining) but is widely accepted.
Level 2. Conservation and Support
Support of the structural integrity of the poster after Level 1 conservation.
Support can come in many forms:
Encapsulation involves placing the object between two sheets of mylar and sonic welding the edges, while a magnetic sheet is used to push all air etc. from between the two sheets. The end result can actually fool you into thinking that the poster is laminated, but is actually just sandwiched between archival materials.
Re-sizing Mixtures of methylcellulose, or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) can be introduce into the fibers of the poster in the form of starch and gel backing creating a transparent film on the back of a poster. CMC is a much stronger sizing agent and adhesive. The result is like a starched shirt stiffening the poster.
Mending Tissue Spot Repair and flattening. This involves applying Japanese mending tissues to tears or soft spots with wheat paste adhesive and flattening.
Paperbacking using Japanese paper (or any acid free paper of greater strength) to mount the poster with wheat paste adhesive.
Linenbacking using Japanese Masa paper, adhered to a stretched cotton canvas (unprimed), to created a very sturdy support for the poster.
Level 3. Conservation, Support and Reversible Restoration
Including all of the above, this is where the separation begins to widen between the two schools of thought regarding restoration. There are two basic categories of restoration: structural restoration, and image restoration.
Structural Restoration refers to the poster being considered a structure and that the poster as a whole, without any missing paper or surface, is a complete structure. Restoration of this kind involves mainly paper fills which can be accomplished in several ways. All are reversible in the form of easy removal with steam or submersion in water.
Complete Paper Placement involves structurally repairing a missing section of poster with a piece of paper having nearly identical (or as close as you can get) characteristics (thickness, sheen, age, color, etc.).
Paper Pulp Fills for smaller areas are created by double boiling similar paper and creating a compound (I’ve found to be knotty) to fill voids. One drawback is that after the fill has dried, it does not sand well.
Cellulose Compound Fills for smaller areas by creating a paste of cellulose powder and methylcellulose or CMC. Calcium Carbonate can be added to assist in smoothness. This is great stuff and easy to sand and surprisingly easy to paint over.
Image Restoration involves in-painting damaged areas to complete the original image on the poster.
Reversible Mediums include water color pencils, pigments, gouache, and concentrated liquids such as Dr. Ph. Martin colors. I have applied all of the mediums and removed them when needed. These, I would say, are not completely reversible as some pigment does get trapped with in the fibers of the damaged areas, but could be removed with submersion in water.
Level 4. Conservation, Support and Irreversible Restoration
Ask yourself this question “As the restoration of an item nears perfection through irreversible means, is it still the same item?” I answer this strongly as NO… I have the opinion that there should be a ‘spirit of restoration’ and that that spirit can die with the attempt to make something it is not through irreversible means. So, what are irreversible means? I am talking about semi-reversible and irreversible in-painting and contrast reduction finishes.
Some of the most prominent and accomplished restorers obtain results through the use of semi-reversible and irreversible means.
Semi-Reversible Mediums include those that require the use of solvents such as solvent reversible varnishes. I put this in this category not because of its highly unlikely ability to be reversed, but because this medium is used to mask damaged areas in the form of an opaque medium used to obtain perfection in image replacement.
Irreversible Mediums includes the direct use of acrylic paints such as Golden Colors, Creatix, and other airbrush paints. This too is also used mainly because it, combined with highly skilled paper compound fills, can mask damaged areas completely… Seriously! This can not be accomplished with reversible mediums such as water colors – they are not opaque enough… The restoration is now not only irreversible but has merged acrylic (a plastic) with paper. So paper and plastic?
Additionally, some restorers have a policy of utilizing overall poster finishes to reduce contrast. If you use reversible mediums, they leave contrasting finishes; usually flat matte. This is especially noticeable on posters with semi-gloss or gloss finishes. When on the poster, the light is absorbed differently by the in-painted area and from different angles the colors can seem to change. Blacks are especially freakish, going from light gray to dark, dark black, based on the viewing angle. So how do you fix this for the guys that wants it ‘minted’? Spray the entire thing with fixative…
Which brings us back full circle to my previous post on fixatives.
This scale Level 0 – 4 doesn’t say, allow for a Level 1 guy to demonize a Level 4 guy, but what it should do is provide a better understanding of where you want your pieces to be. Ultimately it is the choice of the collector what level they want to be at. I also want to open the eyes of uneducated collectors, that the perfect piece you are buying may no only be some awesome paper but plastic as well…
This scale can also be used as a tool to instruct restoration experts on what you want done to your poster and what is unacceptable.
In my journey to the discovery of all the dirty little linenbacking and restoration secrets, I have learned that you really can conceal and hide and deceive… I have ultimately arrived at the decision, with my wife and restoration partner in this mess, to take a path moving away from image restoration, in total, have decided to no longer to do major image restoration work. In fact I’ve had thought of doing no more that Level 1 and 2 efforts in the future…
What you want to do is of course up to you and your restoration expert.